Howard's Folly Wine
2022 Reserva Branco, Case of 6
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A field blend of varietals. Produced in Portalegre to the north east of the Alentejo on the granite foothills of the São Mamede mountains, where cooler temperatures, along with many old vines, gives complexity and freshness.
"I cannot think of a finer Portuguese white wine. I was fortunate to be shown a preview of this brand-new release during my visit to the winery in Estremoz last month. It struck me, on the very first sip, that this is one of the most complete, refreshing, complex and
unique flavours in the wine world. (…) This is a grand, layered, mineral-soaked beauty with an expansive perfume and heavenly flavour. It enchants the senses and yet remains nimble, medium weight and lithe. It manages to pull off a remarkable sleight of hand by bringing glorious chapters of stone fruit and wildflower nuances to the table without being a rich or powerful wine. Made from a field blend that includes the Arinto grape among other unnamed ancient varieties, and matured in French oak and concrete eggs, there are discreet nods to Premier Cru Chablis, white Saint-Joseph, Reyneke’s fynbos-tinged Chenin Blanc and other soothingly delicious and yet wondrously complex white wines and yet it combines all these traits while managing to engender a character all of its own. The vineyard is situated high up in the São Mamede mountains of Portalegre, and this must be the clue to this wine’s spectacular individuality. Do everything you can to track it down!" Matthew Jukes
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